Muffaletta from Harrison's Corner Market

Harrisons Corner Market muffaletta

By Deanna Fox

A muffaletta sandwich is a glorious thing.

Rich, unctuous, and briny, it has enough substance to make typical sandwich accoutrements (pickle, chips) seem superfluous.The trick is getting the proportions right and keeping each flavor profile balanced.

A new (long awaited) eatery -- Harrison's Corner Market in Troy -- seems to recognize and respect that.

The muffaletta has Italian-derived origins in New Orleans, receiving its name from the round sesame bread of the same name. Traditionally, the sandwich is served in wedges, but Harrison's doesn't abide to that standard; instead, it uses a hoagie-style roll dusted with cornmeal on the bottom.

I'm guessing that's because finding real muffaletta (the bread) is a hard feat around here, and I can't think of any bakery making it regularly. (Many do sesame rolls, and some offer focaccia, which would be a fine, but denser, substitution.)

Ham, capicola, and salami (some traditional versions offer mortadella instead of capicola, but I like the subtle spice the latter offers) are stacked in a generous layer with a foundation of creamy, sharp provolone cheese.

Shredded lettuce, onion, and tomato are added in a nod to Italian mix subs that are popular in this region, but they are not part and parcel to the muffaletta. The sandwich is topped with a generous serving of pickle vegetables (think giardiernia, with cauliflower, green beans, carrots, and peppers) and a dose of sliced olives -- an homage to the traditional tapenade of OG muffaletta. Flavors of oregano and garlic come through but do not overpower. The whole things gets a quick press.

There isn't much to say about this sandwich, and that's a good thing.

Harrisons Corner Market exterior closeup night

If you've never had a muffaletta, the version from Harrison's Corner Market is a good introductory lesson on what a sandwich should be. If you have tasted a muffaletta before, you know it's better experienced than explained. Harrison's deviates slightly from that New Orleans original, but barely, and for $8.50, there is little room for complaint anyway.

Carve out a little time if you visit to explore the craft beer selection and grocery section of the store. Packaged bulk items of pantry staples (and harder to find anomalies at conventional grocery stores, like dried hominy) are fairly priced, giving the space more of a general-store than sandwich-shop feel.

(Something gladly welcomed in Troy. This time, let's hope it sticks.)

Deanna Fox writes about many things, mostly about food. More can be found on her website, Twitter, or Instagram.

More Eat This
+ Oxtail egg rolls at Buddha Noodle
+ Nutella bacon bagel at Wired Coffee
+ Galaktoboureko at Blue Ribbon

Earlier: Harrison's Corner Market

Find It

Harrison's Corner Market
96 Congress Street
Troy, NY 12180

Comments

Harrison's is delicious and such a great find! They also have delicious vegetarian and vegan sandwiches (something not always easy to find). Plus i usually grab some beer and fresh veggies when I'm there. So much closer (and better) than grocery stores.

Sounds DELICIOUS!
I make a sub with chibatta roll, honey ham, mozzerella cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato, onion, artichoke, Filipio Berio olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic powder, onion powder, dill weed.

I just noticed something. That bread looks mighty similar to the loaves used to make Cubano sandwiches down in Miami. The way it compresses and both the color and texture of the crust look like the sandwiches I remember at the Cuban cafeteria where I would go for after school snacks.

This is a promising development. Thanks for the pics. I'll have to give it a shot.

Say Something!

We'd really like you to take part in the conversation here at All Over Albany. But we do have a few rules here. Don't worry, they're easy. The first: be kind. The second: treat everyone else with the same respect you'd like to see in return. Cool? Great, post away. Comments are moderated so it might take a little while for your comment to show up. Thanks for being patient.

What's All Over Albany?

All Over Albany is for interested and interesting people in New York's Capital Region. In other words, it's for you. It's kind of like having a smart, savvy friend who can help you find out what's up. Oh, and our friends call us AOA.

Search

Recently on All Over Albany

Thank you!

When we started AOA a decade ago we had no idea what was going to happen. And it turned out better than we could have... (more)

Let's stay in touch

This all feels like the last day of camp or something. And we're going to miss you all so much. But we'd like to stay... (more)

A few things I think about this place

Working on AOA over the past decade has been a life-changing experience for me and it's shaped the way I think about so many things.... (more)

Albany tightened its rules for shoveling snowy sidewalks last winter -- so how'd that work out?

If winter ever gets its act together and drops more snow on us, there will be sidewalks to shovel. And shortly after that, Albany will... (more)

Tea with Jack McEneny

Last week we were fortunate enough to spend a few minutes with Jack McEneny -- former state Assemblyman, unofficial Albany historian, and genuinely nice guy.... (more)

Recent Comments

My three year old son absolutely loving riding the train around Huck Finn's (Hoffman's) Playland this summer.

Thank you!

...has 27 comments, most recently from Ashley

Let's stay in touch

...has 4 comments, most recently from mg

A look inside 2 Judson Street

...has 3 comments, most recently from Diane (Agans) Boyle

Everything changes: Alicia Lea

...has 2 comments, most recently from Chaz Boyark

A few things I think about this place

...has 13 comments, most recently from Katherine