Wontons in Spicy Flavor and Rice Cake with Pork & Capsella at Ala Shanghai

Ala Shanghai rice cakes and hot sauce

Don't forget the hot sauce.

By Jeff Janssens

When asked to name the one Capital Region restaurant that I never get tired of, the answer is easy: Ala Shanghai in Latham.

The xiao long bao (soup dumplings) get the most acclaim at Ala Shanghai, and deservedly so. I wouldn't dare suggest that one not order the soup dumplings during a visit there. But I'd like to make a couple of additional suggestions from Ala Shanghai's extensive 12-page menu.

Here I'll focus on two other exceptional dishes, both of which feature a leafy green known as capsella: Wontons in Spicy Flavor and Rice Cake with Pork and Capsella.

Wontons in Spicy Flavor

Ala_Shanghai_wontons.jpg

It took me a few visits to Ala Shanghai before I was seduced enough by the description of the wontons in "spicy flavor" and said, "Why not get two different kinds of dumplings in one meal?" You might be like me and always want to start a meal here with the soup dumplings, but that doesn't mean you should then ignore these steamed wontons that are served in a simple, yet complex broth.

Featured on the Dim Sum section of the menu, an order of 10 wontons in spicy flavor is only $6. These dumplings are stuffed with capsella and bits of pork. Capsella, also known as shepherd's purse, is in the mustard family, but it is also know as a weed.

Don't let this fact deter you. Shanghai is one of the few places around the world where capsella is used in cooking; the fact that Ala Shanghai effectively incorporates it into their dishes shows their dedication to both tradition and taste. In the wontons, the capsella is cut into small pieces and packed together tightly with the pork. Its slightly bitter flavor plays nicely off of the rich sauce in which the wontons are swimming.

That sauce is a combination of chili oil, soy sauce, and sesame paste made from toasted white sesame seeds. The heat is fairly mild; you might notice it on the back end of every taste, but it's not overpowering. The sesame flavor works harmoniously with the chili oil; texturally they combine for a thin and smooth sauce, but all that roasted sesame flavor from the paste is prominent and only enhanced by the drizzle of sesame seeds atop the dish. The slivers of cucumber and tiny rings of scallions that also top the dish add a nice bit of crunch.

Rice Cake with Pork and Capsella

Ala_Shanghai_rice_cakes.jpg

Rice cakes are fairly ubiquitous throughout Asian cuisine; if you've had Korean dukbokki, for instance, you'll recognize them, only in a different shape than in this dish at Ala Shanghai.

Here the rice cakes are fairly thin ovals that tend to cling to one another. There is nothing noteworthy about the taste of rice cakes, though I do love their pleasantly chewy texture. They are coated by many finely-chopped pieces of capsella, thinly-sliced strands of pork, and narrow slices of bamboo. The pork and capsella once again work well together, and the bamboo is appreciated for its texture, but this dish becomes truly special with one important addition: Ala Shanghai's hot sauce.

Ala_Shanghai_hot_sauce.jpg

I highly recommend asking your server for a bowl of this hot sauce. It adds not only a moderate amount of heat, but also a rich saltiness from the combination of fermented black beans and chilies in oil. This rice cake dish is tucked away in the Lo Mein and Fried Rice portion of the menu (way back on page 11) for $10 and serves as a unique alternative for someone who might ordinarily have a rice or noodle dish.

The fact that capsella is an ingredient in both of these dishes makes, in some ways, for a fun and unique focus to this article. Yet it can't be said, in all honesty, that capsella is the star of either of these dishes. Then again, there's pork in both dishes, and it's more of a role player than even the capsella.

Ala Shanghai has a way of using ingredients in surprising and delicious ways across their extensive menu. These two dishes are proof of that. But they're also evidence of the many delights that await in all corners of this menu.

Jeff Janssens writes about food and beer at The Masticating Monkey.

More Eat This!
+ Vanilla Porter Braised Beef Short Ribs at Midtown Tap & Tea Room
+ Tempeh burger at The Hollow
+ Hamachi Kama at Sushi Tei
+ Dim Sum at Ala Shanghai

Find It

Ala Shanghai
468 Troy Schenectady Road
Latham, NY 12110

Comments

The rice cakes with pork & capsella dish is one of my winter faves this year. So chewy. So good. Overall I find the capsella pretty mildly-flavored, adding (as you said) just the right amount of flavor to a dish.

Love love love Ala Shanghai, and the service is equally as good as the food!!!

My stepson, the foodie of the family, is taking us here tomorrow night. Now I know what to order! Thanks, Jeff!

Say Something!

We'd really like you to take part in the conversation here at All Over Albany. But we do have a few rules here. Don't worry, they're easy. The first: be kind. The second: treat everyone else with the same respect you'd like to see in return. Cool? Great, post away. Comments are moderated so it might take a little while for your comment to show up. Thanks for being patient.

What's All Over Albany?

All Over Albany is for interested and interesting people in New York's Capital Region. In other words, it's for you. It's kind of like having a smart, savvy friend who can help you find out what's up. Oh, and our friends call us AOA.

Search

Recently on All Over Albany

Steve Martin + Martin Short at Proctors

Humorous people Steve Martin and Martin Short will be at Proctors February 17 for a show together. Tickets go on sale this Friday, October 19... (more)

Umphrey's McGee / Experience Hendrix at The Palace

Two shows announced for The Palace today... Umphrey's McGee The jam / prog rock band Umphrey's McGee is set to play a show at The... (more)

Drawing: Historic Haunted Pub Crawl of Downtown Albany

The Historic Haunted Pub Crawl of Downtown Albany have returned this month. And we have a pair of tickets to give away -- maybe to... (more)

Morning Blend

Schoharie limousine crash + Sifting through the life and business dealings of Shahed Hussain, the owner of Prestige Limo who worked as an undercover informant... (more)

The week ahead

Here are a few things to keep in mind, look forward to, or keep busy with this week, from the weather (fall), to haunts, to... (more)

Recent Comments

When I was a new mom I tried lots of different activities. My two favorites were the public library programming. There are a ton of story hours in the area. You could hit one every day of the week and you see a lot of familiar faces after a few weeks and get to know the other parents. They are at a variety of times which helped for the constantly changing nap schedule. ...

Dominoes as an art -- and a job

...has 2 comments, most recently from Lisa Barone

Drawing: Historic Haunted Pub Crawl of Downtown Albany

...has 17 comments, most recently from LDP

A look around Bard & Baker, the new board game cafe in downtown Troy

...has 3 comments, most recently from Julian Hutton

Stuff to do this weekend

...has 3 comments, most recently from CF

Morning Blend for Oct 12

...has 1 comment, most recently from ravioliollie