Dominican icey at Coco Mango's

coco mangos troy icey in cone

By Deanna Fox

My winter jacket has been moved from the attic closet to the main coat rack in my entryway. It's here, friends. Or at least it's on its way.

I'm talking about winter, of course. While my attire choices change, my eating habits often revert to different times. All summer long I crave slow-simmered stews and rich desserts. In winter, I lust after garden-fresh Caprese salads and cooling treats.

Lucky for me, Coco Mango's is finally up and running in Troy, and I can indulge in chilly Dominican icey that keep my insides the same temperature as my outsides to beat winter at its own game. (C'mon, I'm not crazy! It's all using science Parabolic partial differentials! Heat diffusion!)

Known as piragua de crema in the Latin world, Dominican icey is a mash-up of ice cream and shaved ice. Not quite as smooth as ice cream -- but not as crunchy and jagged as shaved ice or a Sno-Cone -- Dominican icey is a refreshing treat that isn't cloying, but isn't watery either.

coco mangos troy menu board

Coco Mango's serves it in flavors like coconut, mango, and pineapple, but traditional flavors include tamarind, genipap (a Caribbean version of a quince), and cocofresca (coconut and strawberry mash-up). Whatever flavor you choose, it is pre-mixed into the icey, not drizzled over the top like Hawaiian shaved ice.

In that way, Dominican icey is in a frozen treat category all to itself. It can be compared to many things -- but it isn't exactly like anything else. The texture is reminiscent of sorbet, but the way it melts in your mouth is akin to Italian ice: Rich, fruity flavors cloak tiny frozen crystals, binding them together, for a silken swallow down your throat. It is scooped into a dish or cone using a paddle and pressed together firmly to create a compact orb -- like gelato.

coco mangos troy icey in cups

Part of the treat's texture comes from the condensed milk that is used to make Dominican icey. Condensed milk is a pantry staple in the Caribbean, a remnant of when refrigeration wasn't necessarily widely available and keeping raw milk was problematic. Turning that milk into ice cream was a treat reserved for the elite, whereas Dominican icey is an authentic everyperson's pleasure commonly sold from street carts.

The owners of Coco Mango's procure their iceys from New York City and also serve ice cream in interesting flavors like pistachio almond. A medium-sized bowl of the stuff will run you $3, but a Dixie Cup-sized small serving is only $1. Get it on a cone, if you'd like, but I recommend a cup.

If you go, try the mango flavor, which is pungent and perfectly sweetened, almost like eating slices of frozen mango topped with honey.

coco mangos troy interior

Coco Mango's location -- on Congress Street in Troy -- is interesting in its own way. As downtown Troy continues its revitalization, it welcomes in ethnic eats that help build the multicultural diversity that has long been part of Troy's history. Sunhee's Farm and Kitchen is just around the block on Ferry Street, and a Halal-focused bodega is just across the street. Too bad other Caribbean-focused cuisine is across town (on Fulton Street is First Choice Caribbean; meanwhile, on 6th Street and Glen Avenue is Hot Spot Jamaican) and Troy can't have it's own Latin/Caribbean food neighborhood.

Deanna Fox writes about many things, mostly about food. More can be found on her website, Twitter, or Instagram.

More Eat This:
+ Tuna sandwich at Little Pecks
+ Bullet latte at Kru Coffee
+ Cider donuts at Indian Ladder Farms
+ Toast menu at Superior Merchandise Co.
+ Lunch buffet at First Choice Caribbean (2014)

Find It

Coco Mango's
72 Congress Street
Troy, NY 12180

Comments

Love this place. And the owner is so fun to talk with!

I truly adore the beautiful color scheme in Coco Mangos... the owner made me and my family feel so welcomed. This is one of my favorite places to go in Troy... I would truly recommend this place as a place to go for children And adults...

Tried to go this afternoon at about 5 and it was closed. There was no sign with hours or anything. I hope they haven't closed for good!

Say Something!

We'd really like you to take part in the conversation here at All Over Albany. But we do have a few rules here. Don't worry, they're easy. The first: be kind. The second: treat everyone else with the same respect you'd like to see in return. Cool? Great, post away. Comments are moderated so it might take a little while for your comment to show up. Thanks for being patient.

What's All Over Albany?

All Over Albany is for interested and interesting people in New York's Capital Region. In other words, it's for you. It's kind of like having a smart, savvy friend who can help you find out what's up. Oh, and our friends call us AOA.

Search

Recently on All Over Albany

The Glynn Mansion and the story of Martin Glynn

Overlooking Washington Park very close to where State Street and Willett Street meet stands a three-story, pink sandstone building with a Romanesque design and an... (more)

Dylan Ratigan has jumped into the pool of challengers to Elise Stefanik

The Congressional elections this fall will be a big and important story as the Democrats try to take a majority in at least one of... (more)

Siena Hip-Hop Week 2018: Masta Killa

Siena's annual Hip-Hop Week returns in March. And this year's keynote speaker is Masta Kill from the the Wu-Tang Clan -- he'll be at the... (more)

Imagine Dragons at SPAC

The latest pop concert announcement for SPAC: Imagine Dragons on June 29. Tickets go on sale March 3 -- they're $35 (lawn) and up. (There's... (more)

What's up in the Neighborhood

Among the topics in this most recent spin around the Capital Region's online neighborhood: frustration and the unfortunately predictable cycle, Thacher Park, Will Hicok Low,... (more)

Recent Comments

Definitely needs a mural. Another spot that is begging for one is the Delaware Ave Price Chopper in Albany. The side along Elm St is a huge gray wall that takes up most of the block!

Big downtown residential project approved (again), street ownership intrigue, and other exciting tales of the Albany Planning Board

...has 4 comments, most recently from BC

When the downtown street trees reached wide

...has 7 comments, most recently from greg

Morning Blend for Feb 21

...has 1 comment, most recently from Jackers

Gawking at the ceiling of the Smith Building

...has 6 comments, most recently from Ann

William Shatner at Proctors

...has 1 comment, most recently from Mike