Toast menu at Superior Merchandise Co.

Superior Merchandise three toasts

By Deanna Fox

The first time I heard of a "toast menu" in a restaurant, my eyes rolled so hard I'm pretty sure I sprained something in my head. (My brain?) It was in an issue of Bon Appetit magazine in 2014, regarding a restaurant in San Francisco that did toast so well, it could rightly charge $4 a slice.

'Tis a fad, I thought, but then BA kept on publishing about toast. Later that year, "Toast is still happening. Get on the train." Months later, "27 ideas for toast." And my favorite, published this year, "Life before avocado toast: The 16 ways dining has changed since 2000."

Should it come as a surprise that "specialty toast" has made its way to the Capital Region? Scoff if you want to, but toast isn't going anywhere, so we might as well play with it. That's what Superior Merchandise Company, in Troy, is doing.

But don't take it as child's play. This toast is serious business.

Currently, there are three varieties of toast available at Superior Merch, all of which come on bread from Bread Alone (various locations throughout the Hudson Valley): Butter and jam ($4), spicy chevre ($5), and avocado ($6).

Each version of the toast starts with a solid foundation of hearty whole-grain bread, akin to a farmer's loaf. The toast itself is a subtle balance in texture, retaining a tender chew while offering enough of a charred exterior to not become soggy under the various toppings.

The perfectly soft butter and Shady Acres jam are an elevated version of the classic morning meal. Choose from three varieties of jam, including a jalapeno-raspberry, ginger-rhubarb, and black currant. I'm betting those varieties are bound to change with the seasons, so keep an eye out for future offerings. My pint-sized dining companions -- my children -- were most enthusiastic about this version of toast, meaning that even though it's "fancy" toast, it can still appeal to the fundamentalists among us.

Superior Merchandise avocado toast

The avocado toast is little more than a smashed-up avocado sprinkled with a few grains of salt and drizzled with sriracha. Simple, humble, uncomplicated. As I once wrote, "Avocado toast is the new quinoa." But even quinoa on its own is a bit unimpressive. In theory, I liked the toast and the health-conscious principles is encompasses: You can't really do better at breakfast than avocado toast. But I think this version could have benefitted from an additional element of flavor, perhaps a squeeze of lime or a more potent finishing salt, like a coarse grain fleur de sel or even salish.

Superior Merchandise goat cheese toast

The real star on this menu is the chevre option. The R&G Cheesemakers spicy chevre (goats milk cheese) is generously slathered on the toast and drizzled with honey, garnished with microgreens. The burnished-orange cheese is deceptively spicy (it made my eyes water) but is tempered with the floral sweetness of the honey. The microgreens offer a delicate vegetal quality that cuts the heaviness of bread, cheese, and sugar. The toast eats more like an open-faced grilled cheese and is a hearty option for a morning start, midday nosh, or after-hours snack.

After toast so rich and savory, I was craving a sweeter option. I'll keep my fingers crossed that Superior Merch takes a cue from Rubi's in Great Barrington and considered offering something like the chocolate sandwich. Bread slathered with dark chocolate (or hell, a little Nutella) would have been a perfect solution.

It's easy to be skeptical of a toast program. Toast -- one of the first things most of us learn to make in the kitchen -- is kids' stuff, but done right, it can be more of a trencher than just a piece of Wonderbread slathered in Smuckers.

Yo, toast is happening. Still. So get on the train. Superior Merch will show you how.

Superior Merchandise Troy exterior 2016-September

SMCo. anniversary: Superior Merchandise is celebrating its one-year anniversary this Saturday, September 10. It'll have coffees from a variety of roasters, collaboration beers with with Rare Form Brewing Company and Brown's Brewing, food from local vendors, live music, and custom-painted mugs by artist Michael Conlin.

This post was updated to include the correct price for each individual variety of toast.

Deanna Fox writes about many things, mostly about food. More can be found on her website, Twitter, or Instagram.

More Eat This:
+ Tacos at Oaxaquena Triqui
+ Chicken spiedies at Excelsior Pub
+ Blackened Fish Po'Boy at Hooked Seafood Co.
+ Burgers at Crave

Earlier on AOA: Superior Merchandise Co.

Find It

Superior Merchandise Co.
147 Fourth Street
Troy, NY 12180

Comments

I do love a good toast... is that $6.00 for a basket or per slice?

@J -- my mistake. Prices are PER BASKET, but they are not all $6. The avocado toast is $6, chevre is $5, and jam is $4.

Thanks Deanna. That's a steal! Going today... maybe now... :-)

I would put my gourmet mushed meatloaf,mushed lasagne, blended corned beef & cabbage dinner, spirell cut stuffed green peppers, or luchen kugel that has been blessed by my on toast on my menu! Who wants to eat with me?

I had sardine toast this weekend in Burlington. So surprisingly delicious.

Hi there. Comments have been closed for this item. Still have something to say? Contact us.

The Scoop

For a decade All Over Albany was a place for interested and interesting people in New York's Capital Region. It was kind of like having a smart, savvy friend who could help you find out what's up. AOA stopped publishing at the end of 2018.

Recently on All Over Albany

Thank you!

When we started AOA a decade ago we had no idea what was going to happen. And it turned out better than we could have... (more)

Let's stay in touch

This all feels like the last day of camp or something. And we're going to miss you all so much. But we'd like to stay... (more)

A few things I think about this place

Working on AOA over the past decade has been a life-changing experience for me and it's shaped the way I think about so many things.... (more)

Albany tightened its rules for shoveling snowy sidewalks last winter -- so how'd that work out?

If winter ever gets its act together and drops more snow on us, there will be sidewalks to shovel. And shortly after that, Albany will... (more)

Tea with Jack McEneny

Last week we were fortunate enough to spend a few minutes with Jack McEneny -- former state Assemblyman, unofficial Albany historian, and genuinely nice guy.... (more)

Recent Comments

My three year old son absolutely loving riding the train around Huck Finn's (Hoffman's) Playland this summer.

Thank you!

...has 27 comments, most recently from Ashley

Let's stay in touch

...has 4 comments, most recently from mg

A look inside 2 Judson Street

...has 3 comments, most recently from Diane (Agans) Boyle

Everything changes: Alicia Lea

...has 2 comments, most recently from Chaz Boyark

A few things I think about this place

...has 13 comments, most recently from Katherine